The Patrons: Profiles

My new friend Eric is one of my many repeat customers.  I am very very proud when I can make and sell a jacket.  I am ecstatic when a customer comes back and orders more then one.  Usually customers approach with trepidations via the web.  Many are concerned that they cannot possibly get the correct fit or that my jackets will not live up to expectations.  I intend to include some of the letters I get from my customers regarding my jackets.  I am taken aback by the amount of love and appreciation I am getting through the email.  I am going to not include the names of my competitors cited in the mails.  I respect all the players that are trying to carve out a niche in building beautiful vintage quality jackets.  I of course strive to be the best!

Here is an excerpt from another customer Darren. He bought an Avro and a Kensington:

Dear David,

We were away, and returned a couple of days ago. The jackets arrived shortly before we left, but I have not had a chance to email until now.
The jackets are completely amazing. You said they turned out well, and that was no exaggeration. As much as I liked the two-tone Avro, I like the black better. It is the coolest and best made garment I own, next to the Kensington. I wish you could see a direct comparison between your horsehide and the XXXX XXXXXs. Theirs is shiny, almost like a painted finish, while your’s glows – that is the best way I can describe it. The leather is neither matte and rubbery or glossy and crinkly. You certainly were correct with your choice of Italian/Japanese hides; they are beyond compare.  XXXX XXXXX not junk, but when you have them side by side, the differences are obvious. 
The Avro is almost too cool. You might remember when Steve Martin was a wild and crazy guy, but almost all dentists are mild and lazy guys. The jacket will elevate me to a stratospheric level of cool. Simply put, it is virtually too unbelievable to wear.
The Kensington is the epitome of understated cool. I will definitely have you make me a pair of pants from that dark brown leather at some point. It is in no way too shiny for me. The feel is almost subtly waxy, and I’m sure that, from a distance, someone would have difficulty telling that they were made from horsehide. I know the pants will be every bit as perfect as the jacket, and I can wait.
I’m not sure what you think of my choice for the Avro’s lining, but I think it is an excellent look, even if no true vintage jacket were similarly lined. I am also very happy with your choice of lining for the Kensington.
I am torn. You are a true master of the medium and you deserve to sell a million pieces. I just don’t want anyone else to have my jacket! A little selfish, I guess.
I cannot wait to do business with you in the future, and I will check your site for anything new. If you do start to make pants, please let me know, so I can be among the first customers.

Thanks!
Sincerely,
Darren

 


Leather: Horsehide Tanneries Viva Italia

Part of the process of developing my jacket lines is to search out the most authentic original materials I can find to recreate the footsteps of my ancestors.  The leather jacket makers of the past searched out the best materials, animals, skins, tanners, zippers, buttons, sewers and threads to make jackets that would look better, perform better, out last, and hopefully outprice, their competitors.  The issues were never purely price driven.  These great companies are only recognized and collected today because the jackets and products they made are still around and were made to stand the test of time.  There are so few sources of products worthy of manufacturing jackets in the “old way”  I have been ordering leather, and working with tanneries globally to buy some of the best veg. tanned horsehide on the planet.  My horsehides come from several sources in Japan, North America and now Italy.

There is a method to this madness of ordering hides from different tanneries.  Firstly it can take up to a year to produce vegetable tanned horsehide.  I can’t just run down to the corner store and order it up on demand! Secondly, each tannery is kind of like a winery.  They use different horses, different tannages, different oils and subtly different techniques to make their hides.  Like wine, hides come out with slightly different characteristics from each tannery, different tempers, different finishes and different feels.  While it is popular to focus on one brand or another these days, I can assure you that focusing on one tannery is like only drinking one brand of wine, it might be good but variety is the spice of life! I can’t and don’t just call up and order leather.  I work very hard to experiment with tannages, bating and finishes to come up with the most authentic and best “feel” of leather possible.  I have been working on buffalo, goat and horsehide.

I just got new horsehide in from Italy.  It is beautiful, a very vintage style hide on the “drier” side of vegetable tanning with a very nice hand.  The leather has a papery crust with a really nice dark rich black brown finish and a two colour analine dye finish.  This leather is absolutely lovely.  It is also very very authentic to early 1930s sporting leathers that were veg. tanned. Jacket samples will be coming soon!

 

 


The Patrons: Profiles

I feel it is important to share the best stories and success’ of what I am doing with anybody who is interested.  I work really really hard at making the best possible jackets I can.  I dream of designs and materials and techniques.

Every time I make a jacket I sweat and shake once it is in the mail and wait nervously from my customers to hear that it fits well and that they love it.  I have not had to deal with a complaint yet!  I hope that if that day comes I handle any issues with grace.

Thanks man…I appreciate this more than you can ever imagine….phew!