Making a Heron A-1: Sewing the Body, Sleeves and Collar

DSC_1353

Once a jacket has been cut and all the pieces checked for quality, the assemblage of the body can commence.  Typically the seam allowance for a leather jacket is 3/8ths; this helps save on very expensive leather wastage.   Our jackets are sewn with two types of thread.  The inner seams are synthetic for strength and the top stitching is done in cotton thread for both beauty and authenticity.  As a jacket wears the cotton thread tends to protect the leather from wear and tear.  The strain on the stitch holes can lead to a sawing effect with nylon thread so rather than experience that kind of wear over time the more authentic cotton thread which was used in the 1930s and 1940s is preferred.  Thread gauge and stitch counts are maintained to the original jackets of the 1930s. We had to overcome many technical difficulties in order to use cotton.  The main one being that the sewing has to be slowed down in order to not constantly break the thread as the needle penetrates the very tough beautiful horsehides.

Closeup of Capeskin seams on a Heron jacket

Closeup of Capeskin seams on a Heron jacket

When sewing, the body is sewn first separate from the sleeves and the collar.  Any external hard wear and straps like the nickel d-rings are attached to the body of the jacket.  Inner seams are sewn, first maintaining the seam allowance and then the top stitching is applied to finish the seam.  We keep our top stitching accurate to the widths of the original jackets.  In order to maintain flat seams and smooth stitching, seams need to be tamped or hammered as the sewing progresses.  As well anywhere where there are multiple folds and seams that are joined, the seam allowance needs to be cut away and often edges get skived down.  Skiving is a process of shaving down the leather in order to minimize the thickness.  As typical in the shoe industry, jackets made with real horsehide leather would be too thick on seams where leather can be folded over up to 8 times.  8 times of 1.1 mm leather makes for an almost 1 cm thick seam to top stitch over.  High quality sewing leads to very nice flat seams on these joins. This takes time and the sewing techniques of very skilled craftspeople.

Whenever pieces of the body are joined together, we finish each seam with a knot.  Few manufacturers would take the extra time to do

this.  By hand knotting the seam the likelihood of ever coming unstitched is minimized and creates an extra strong seam!

 


Back to Manufacturing: Making a Heron A-1

I am back in the shop working on my first serious order of jackets.  It seems like it has been forever since we have put needle to horsehide.  My favourite design often seems simple to make and given todays standards of cheap and simple imported jackets I thought it might be insightful to explain and show off why our jackets are so superior to a run of the mill imported jacket.  Each one of our A-1 Heron jackets is hand cut.  They have to be!  Because the hides are tanned in a traditional manner using vegetable tanning.  The hides have their own unique character.  When cutting a jacket, hides have to be matched for character, grain and thickness.  The leather is soaked for 3 months in a bark solution.  This makes for an incredibly beautiful long lasting leather that when milled really shows off the character of the animal it came from.  That character demands hand selection and cutting.

 

The first steps involve cutting the leather by laying the pattern out on a skin,  recording the size of the skin and minimizing the wastage of the leather.  Pieces are laid out and weighted down so that they don’t move when the skilled hands of the cutter follow around the pattern.  The cutter needs a steady hand in order not to “shave off” any of the pattern.  This could alter the actual pattern over time!

 

Each type of leather has to be separated in the case of a jacket requiring more than one type of leather.  When manufacturing you are ultimately trying to save time and wastage of materials, and leather is expensive!

Once each piece of horsehide is cut and notched and marked they go into a container holding all the pieces, the liner pieces, the hardware including zippers, buttons labels and the order sheet.  This was as each individual jacket is sewn any special instructions and all the parts are available and in one place.  In order to make a perfect jacket sometimes the pattern needs to be customized for the individual buying the jacket.

 

 


Himel Brothers Leather: The Family Story


Calvin Himel

Well, … summer is over and fall has begun.  I found out  this year that my dad had cancer.  This started a long process of trying to treat the cancer and then the realization that death was at our door.  My dad died in July and I still find myself drifting about here and there thinking about him, me, my past, his past and my future.

I never really had a great relationship with my dad…that is to say I didn’t have one until the last few years.  Since about the time my wife’s dad died I never really thought about my relationship with the old man.  After that  I spent a lot of time trying to figure out what I needed to do to try and catch up for lost years and repair the mistakes that both of us had made in the past.  I spent a lot of time filling up old psychological ditches and trying to build some nice times with dad.  It certainly helped that Nancy and him got along like peas in a pod.

For a guy that spends most of his time thinking about the past, and nostalgia and vintage…the strangest part for me of losing a parent is losing all those old memories and stories that only my dad knew.  Some he shared like old bedtime stories about his youth long past..adventures of young men, friends and family long buried, but most were lost forever into the blur of the past.  For all his faults,  my dad was a real character, and I was pretty similar to him in personality.  He grew up during the war living in a two bedroom apartment with a large family above a schmata” store.  There was never any question that my dad would be a doctor and not in clothing business.  Dad faced his share of anti-semitism, adversity and hardship but he was from an era where adversity was normal and it was a mans job to suck it up and never flinch.  This made for some pretty tough distant dads.  I try as I get older not to judge the past, realizing how hard it is to get it together in our lives.  I believe that my dad like so many dads, had good intentions and that the life of a father in the 1960s had a completely different context then today.  A life lived well, and with good intention should be honoured.  Even though I did not have a lifetime of perfect memories I managed some really really good ones over the last 8 years and those made his death more bearable.  RIP Dr. Calvin Himel