Back to Manufacturing: Making a Heron A-1

I am back in the shop working on my first serious order of jackets.  It seems like it has been forever since we have put needle to horsehide.  My favourite design often seems simple to make and given todays standards of cheap and simple imported jackets I thought it might be insightful to explain and show off why our jackets are so superior to a run of the mill imported jacket.  Each one of our A-1 Heron jackets is hand cut.  They have to be!  Because the hides are tanned in a traditional manner using vegetable tanning.  The hides have their own unique character.  When cutting a jacket, hides have to be matched for character, grain and thickness.  The leather is soaked for 3 months in a bark solution.  This makes for an incredibly beautiful long lasting leather that when milled really shows off the character of the animal it came from.  That character demands hand selection and cutting.

 

The first steps involve cutting the leather by laying the pattern out on a skin,  recording the size of the skin and minimizing the wastage of the leather.  Pieces are laid out and weighted down so that they don’t move when the skilled hands of the cutter follow around the pattern.  The cutter needs a steady hand in order not to “shave off” any of the pattern.  This could alter the actual pattern over time!

 

Each type of leather has to be separated in the case of a jacket requiring more than one type of leather.  When manufacturing you are ultimately trying to save time and wastage of materials, and leather is expensive!

Once each piece of horsehide is cut and notched and marked they go into a container holding all the pieces, the liner pieces, the hardware including zippers, buttons labels and the order sheet.  This was as each individual jacket is sewn any special instructions and all the parts are available and in one place.  In order to make a perfect jacket sometimes the pattern needs to be customized for the individual buying the jacket.

 

 


Himel Brothers Leather: The Family Story


Calvin Himel

Well, … summer is over and fall has begun.  I found out  this year that my dad had cancer.  This started a long process of trying to treat the cancer and then the realization that death was at our door.  My dad died in July and I still find myself drifting about here and there thinking about him, me, my past, his past and my future.

I never really had a great relationship with my dad…that is to say I didn’t have one until the last few years.  Since about the time my wife’s dad died I never really thought about my relationship with the old man.  After that  I spent a lot of time trying to figure out what I needed to do to try and catch up for lost years and repair the mistakes that both of us had made in the past.  I spent a lot of time filling up old psychological ditches and trying to build some nice times with dad.  It certainly helped that Nancy and him got along like peas in a pod.

For a guy that spends most of his time thinking about the past, and nostalgia and vintage…the strangest part for me of losing a parent is losing all those old memories and stories that only my dad knew.  Some he shared like old bedtime stories about his youth long past..adventures of young men, friends and family long buried, but most were lost forever into the blur of the past.  For all his faults,  my dad was a real character, and I was pretty similar to him in personality.  He grew up during the war living in a two bedroom apartment with a large family above a schmata” store.  There was never any question that my dad would be a doctor and not in clothing business.  Dad faced his share of anti-semitism, adversity and hardship but he was from an era where adversity was normal and it was a mans job to suck it up and never flinch.  This made for some pretty tough distant dads.  I try as I get older not to judge the past, realizing how hard it is to get it together in our lives.  I believe that my dad like so many dads, had good intentions and that the life of a father in the 1960s had a completely different context then today.  A life lived well, and with good intention should be honoured.  Even though I did not have a lifetime of perfect memories I managed some really really good ones over the last 8 years and those made his death more bearable.  RIP Dr. Calvin Himel